Kenneth Winston is a well-established name on the international bridal scene with a number of key collections in a diverse, fashion-forward portfolio that includes new interpretations of the classics, as well as adventurous young labels that shift the boundaries. Just prior to BBEH (8-10 September) we asked the man himself to explain his design direction for the new season
Q Kenneth Winston is central to Private Label. What is your fabric story for the year ahead?
A We have focused on the delicate and vast variety that lace is able to provide, often pairing laces with subtle fabrics such as tulle and soft satins. We spent an abundance of time searching for new intricate laces that were not only intricately designed but also soft to the touch. We came across beautiful all-over laces as well as wonderful Venice-style lace and incorporated them into the growing beauty of what Kenneth Winston portrays. The contrast of texture between lace and satins creates a unique visual value that elevated the lace’s beauty while the tulle matched perfectly as a subtle counterpart when we developed gowns with lace heavy bodices.
Q And what about silhouettes?
A Due to the nature of embellishments we were working with, we knew that mermaid and trumpet shapes would play a great role in showing off the delicate structure of our laces, so there is an emphasis on form-fitting silhouettes designed to show off the beautiful and natural curves of the female body. We also did not want to stray far from what Private Label has also been known for, our beading. Understanding that simplicity is key, we have added beaded embellishments on top of our lace to create the right amount of sparkle without taking away from the true beauty of the fabric used. We’ve also incorporated A-line and ballgown silhouettes into the new collection that traditional brides will love, but included a fun flare – a tea-length gown with a real vintage feel.
Q Tell us about the other Kenneth Winston labels.
A In Premiere this season, what you’ll first notice is the heavy use of lace; we not only fully embellished certain gowns from bodice to hem but also designed nice lace build ups and straps continuing the flow from head to toe. This range is sophisticated and luxurious. Silhouettes include chic mermaids and trumpet shapes alongside lavish ballgowns and flattering A-lines. When it comes to the plus-size Femme by Kenneth Winston collection, we broke free of all the basic principles and said: “Why not.” We wanted to create Femme with the same inspired design approach we apply to our other collections – and not to limit ourselves to the basic styling you’ll constantly see with pleating and small brooches; staying true to our roots, we added intricate beadwork to our gowns and incorporated lavish laces and taking a further step away from the predictable, we’ve incorporate dropped-waist fitted A-lines this season as well as sexy mermaids and stunning ballgowns. Meanwhile, Colour by Kenneth Winston, lets our imaginations run free and move away from all-things-white. This collection of little dresses has a broad appeal – to bridesmaids, party-goers, guests and even stylish mothers of the bride. Inspiration comes from across the globe – from the high-end fashion trends of Europe, to the exotic festive night life of Miami Florida, to the simple styling of a beach-goers sundress. Our Colours focus is on fun flirty looks and on fabric treatments and detailing.
Q Ella Rosa, we know, is for the young, adventurous bride. Is the new Gallery line that will go on show at Harrogate part of that?
A Ella Rosa Gallery is deliciously fresh. Fluidity is the main focus and so flowing chiffons are key. We adorned these sheath gowns with lace appliques paired with small amounts of beading to add just enough sheen to make a beautiful fashion statement. And along with the body-skimming dresses, there are a few A-lines with a fuller skirt for that ultra-feminine, romantic look, without use of the traditional heavy fabrics.
For Private Label contact details visit our Brands Directory. See the collection at Harrogate on stand B18/23