Silk is the fabric of emperors. The fabric of royals. It is used to distinguish those in authority, those of wealth and those who achieve. When a lawyer reaches the height of their profession, they ‘take silk’, and become entitled to wear silk robes. Academic degrees are presented to graduates in silk hoods. It is made into ecclesiastical robes and has featured in ceremonial rites, from ancient Egyptian burials to modern-day weddings. Lady Diana wore 25 yards of silk taffeta. It’s of no surprise then, that a silk wedding gown is the aspiration of many brides we meet today.

 

“Throughout history, fashion has reinforced the notion that every bride is queen for a day, or at least Cinderella.” (The Way We Wed, Kimberley Chrisman-Campbell)

 

So, what does this mean for you and your brides? Let’s explore the history of silk and some of the considerations and challenges when choosing silk today.

 

Understanding Silk

There are many reasons to choose silk and being able to highlight these will help a bride feel more confident in her choice. Lightweight and breathable, a thermal-regulator, moisture-wicking, hypoallergenic and mosquito-resistant… and of course, its lustrous sheen. From the crisp rustle of taffeta to the softest of fine chiffons, there are multiple possibilities. But there are some characteristics of silk that need special consideration and finding out about the brides big-day can be helpful when discussing the suitability of silk.

 

Wedding-Day Suitability

 

Creasing: A silk gown may not be practical for a bride marrying abroad. Silk creases heavily so this would pose the bride a significant problem on arrival to her wedding destination after transporting the gown in tightly packed luggage. It would be the bride’s responsibility to ensure the provision of a specialist steaming and pressing service on arrival.

 

Heat Sensitivity: The surface of silk fibres can scorch easily so should be ironed with a pressing cloth. This will also protect seam folds from acquiring an unwanted sheen. Do not encourage the bride to steam it herself, as mini travel steamers are prone to ‘spitting’ which can scorch and leave watermarks.

 

Water Marking: Likewise, if the gown is intended for a beach ceremony, silk may not be an appropriate choice due to moisture in the sand. This will watermark the hemline and train. This same consideration applies to Winter weddings here in the UK if a bride is travelling between multiple venues, due to the impact of rain or ground moisture on the gown. Whereas this would be no issue at all for a Winter wedding that is hosted under one roof.

 

Shade Variance

 

Dying: Silk will dye very well. But as a biological fibre, with each fabric bolt produced by a different team of caterpillars, this does mean that dye consistency can vary across fabric bolts. This is important to share with brides, particularly if the sample gown in question has colour detailing. Her actual gown, may have a subtle shade variance, so it is worth preparing for this notion to prevent any problems at the point of collection. It is important to explain that shade variation is not a fault, it is simply a special characteristic of silk, making each dress truly unique.

As a couturier, or a designer ordering cloth for a bespoke piece, ensure that the required length is correctly ordered in one dispatch, cut from one bolt – ideally the same bolt from which your colour swatch was issued. Some silks are supplied in sari-lengths so be careful with this if more than one length is required, since shade consistency is not guaranteed.

 

Preservation

 

Staining: Its logical that since silk dyes well, it stains easily too. To protect the trains of your silk sample gowns, ensure that the dressing area of your boutique is a shoe-free environment with no food, drink or make-up products present. When booking appointments, you could caution against heavy make-up or tanning lotions. This is particularly important during alteration fittings and bespoke fittings since, by this point, brides are wearing their actual gown, no longer a sample.

Acid Damage: Perspiration will damage silk. Sweat has an acidic PH value which will gradually break down the proteins and, additionally, will cause yellowing. Clammy, or otherwise, skin has an acidic residue from even mild perspiration, which then encounters the gown. Ensure that brides understand the importance of cleaning their wedding gown after the big-day. And likewise, your boutique sample gowns should be regularly cleaned for the same reason. To protect the at-risk underarm area, use a fresh pair of dress shields for every try-on. These simply adhere to the inside of the dress, and peel away after the appointment (sweatguard.co.uk/collections/sweat-pads) .

Mildew: Keeping the boutique regularly aired, and allowing sample gowns to breathe after each appointment will prevent mildew. For brides who live is small apartments, it is important that her gown is stored in a room not too close to a bathroom or kitchen, away from steamier environments. Ensure that a breathable dress bag is used and avoid plastic coverings.

Sunlight: Being protein based; silk is susceptible to damage by ultra violet rays. Over time, sunlight will gradually break down the protein fibres creating holes around stress points such as fastenings, seams and hanger contacts. Consider how you use window coverings in your boutique and position your silk gowns in the shadier part of the store, away from direct light. Bag your silk gowns during any closure periods to protect against general daylight and avoid using silk gowns in window displays altogether. Not all UV rays are absorbed by glass, UVA rays will penetrate through.

 

Cleaning

 

Washable: Silk is suitable for both dry-cleaning and water-based cleaning. Hot water will harden silk though, so a cool water temperature should be used with a gentle, bleach-free detergent. The fabric must not be rubbed or wrung out as this will separate the threads and distort its weave.

Quick-Drying: Towel roll any moisture out of the silk and leave the gown to air dry away from a radiator so that the fabric will dry evenly, at the same pace throughout. This will prevent a watermark bleed. For this reason, silk is not suitable for spot-cleaning since the cleaned area will watermark when drying. If a small area of the gown becomes soiled, a full water immersion would be required after spot-cleaning so that the newly cleaned area can dry in tandem with the gown as a whole.

 

Alterations

 

Scarring: When sizing your bride, keep in mind that silk fabric is subject to stitch-scarring. Therefore, avoid any risk of a ‘let-out’ being required. Finer silk fabrics will be French-seamed resulting in a twice stitched, narrower seam allowance, with very limited capacity for sizing up. Once a finished gown has been pressed, those heat-pressed folds become permanent. The surface of the pressed fibre is physically changed meaning that a let-out will reveal heat-scarring in addition to stitch-scarring.

Temperamental: Alterations to a silk gown require a little more confidence than other fabrics. So, ensure that your bride is booking with an experienced seamstress. The surface of silk will glide over the machines feed-dog a little too smoothly and it can also indent. Sewing with a tissue paper between layers will prevent this slippage but does slow the process and can impact cost. Silk can be prone to tiny snag lines too so a new needle should be used for each silk gown, usually a 70/10 universal for finer silks, though a 75/11 can sometimes work better for heavier weaves.

 

 

 

Written by Leann Marshall

Owner of LeannMarieDesign
Writer of the Blog, ‘All Gown & No Knickers’