Ethics

From an environmental point of view, silk is a great choice. It lends itself well to organic farming methods and the resulting fibre, being so absorbent, will colour very easily, requiring much less water and chemical dying than other fabrics. Being fully biodegradable means that end-of-life disposal has no long-term impact. 

 

This, however, is in stark contrast to its impact on animals. To retain an unbroken thread, the cocoon must be unwound via a process known as stifling. This means boiling or steaming the cocoons with the caterpillars still alive inside.

 

“…When you dip the cocoon in boiling water or bake it with hot air, you’re killing the pupa inside. And huge amounts of pupa are killed in these ways to make the world’s silk. To make one pound of the lustrous, revered material requires about 2,500 or more silkworms.” (Quartz, Is it Unethical to Wear Silk? Marc Bain, 21.06.18)

 

Cruelty-Free Silks

None-commercial Tussah and wild Tussah silk is spun from the broken, shorter fibres of a chewed cocoon. There is no stifling process, and the caterpillar can naturally chew its way out of the cocoon to emerge as a moth, therefore compromising the filament. The uneven nature of the ‘spun’ thread creates a more matt, slubbed texture and for this reason it is less frequently used in bridal gowns.

Ahimsa Silk (from the Sanskrit ‘none-injury’) was developed in India by Kusuma Rajaiah who was “heavily influenced by Mahatma Gandhi’s non-violent philosophy.” (Vogue India, Jasreen Mayal Khanna, 13.09.19) This is also a stifling-free method and is frequently referred to as Peace Silk or None-Violent silk. Despite Ahimsa silk being costlier and more time-consuming to produce than regular silk, it has become a popular choice for designers catering to a more discerning buyer. 

There are many reasons to choose silk and being able to highlight these will help a bride feel more confident in her choice. Lightweight and breathable, a thermal-regulator, moisture-wicking, hypoallergenic and mosquito-resistant… and of course, its lustrous sheen. From the crisp rustle of taffeta to the softest of fine chiffons, there are multiple possibilities. But there are some characteristics of silk that need special consideration and finding out about the brides big-day can be helpful when discussing the suitability of silk.

 

“Ahimsa is the attribute of the soul, and therefore, to be practiced by everybody in all affairs of life. If it cannot be practiced in all departments, it has no practical value.” (Mahatma Ghandi)

 

Vegan Alternatives

The Vegan movement has spilled over onto the catwalk, with a revolutionary approach to plant-based fabrics. In 2019, Vogue reported that vegan fashion stock had increased by 258% across the UK and US. Tencel, rayon, milkweed pod fibre, lotus fibre, citrus fibre, soy silk and banana silk are all alternatives that can imitate the aesthetics of animal derived silk. 

Additionally, modern polyesters are now a very accessible, attractive and affordable bridal alternative and whilst regular petroleum derived polyester is far from being environmentally sustainable, recycled polyester is much better. Recycled polyester Mikado, chiffon and tulle mimic traditional silk but with slightly different properties that result in a silk-like fabric that is crease resistant, stain resistant, easy to wash and does not water mark. This offers a practical alternative for the bride with the overseas destination wedding. For the bride who is vegan. Or the bride with a smaller budget, who aspires to the look and feel of silk, but without the price tag.

 

“47.4% said they would like to see more vegan verified fashion across all clothing ranges.” (PDF Report: The Rise of Vegan Fashion, The Vegan Society, 2021)

 

Labour

Silk production can be negatively associated with exploitation and child labour in places such as Uzbekistan and India. However, as Quartz magazine explains, in countries such as India and China “it still provides livelihoods to a large number of people. In rural areas of India, in particular, the work it offers can be invaluable, especially for women.”

Certifications to look for include:

The SA8000 Standard- The world leading social certification program which assesses against criteria related to child labour, enforced labour, health & safety, and collective bargaining rights.

Global Organic Textile Standards (GOTS)- The certification of organic fabric. This also safeguards workers from the harmful side affects of working with chemicals and pesticides.

Fair-Trade- A certification that supports the right to a fair wage and good working conditions.

Your Approach

Silk will certainly hold its place in the bridal market. And how you, as a boutique owner or designer, wish to harness this, in an ever-changing bridal market, will be a testament to your own values and those of your brides.

Whether it’s the history and legacy of silk that attracts you. The cultural richness of a fabric belonging to our ancestors. The stories and romanticism of the silk road…

Or the arising opportunities afforded to your business by marketing to the growing niche of ‘Conscious Fashion’. Tapping into the growing trend of cruelty-free clothing…

Or whether you relish the challenge of providing an alternative silk-like product by more practical and affordable means... 

Consider your own business sustainability statement and how your gown selection can feed into this. When curating your range, ask designers and brands for their fabric information and traceability. Discuss with them how you can effectively market this information to attract and inform your target buyer. Your bride may be paying the bill, but who and what is paying the true cost of her silk bridal gown?

 

Written by Leann Marshall | Owner of LeannMarieDesign
Writer of the Blog, ‘All Gown & No Knickers’